Ghost Walk – Traveling

Busy Day

Yesterday was a long day. I didn’t have anything booked until 1:00, so I decided to spend the morning seeing York Minster and walking the walls of the city.

The folks at the guesthouse where I'm staying told me about a shortcut through the Yorkshire Museum Gardens that goes to the city centre. I decided to walk that way. — The folks at the guesthouse where I’m staying told me about a shortcut through the Yorkshire Museum Gardens that goes to the city centre. I decided to walk that way.

I'm not sure if it's any shorter, but it certainly a nicer walk than just going down the street. — I’m not sure if it’s any shorter, but it certainly a nicer walk than just going down the street.

The gardens were once the site of St. Mary's Abbey, just outside the walls of York. It was one of the victims of Henry VIII's dissolution of the monasteries after he broke with the Church of Rome. — The gardens were once the site of St. Mary’s Abbey, just outside the walls of York. It was one of the victims of Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries after he broke with the Church of Rome.

I started with York Minster. It's the largest Gothic cathedral in the UK. And it looms really well, which is kind of a requirement for Gothic architecture. — I started with York Minster. It’s the largest Gothic cathedral in the UK. And it looms really well, which is kind of a requirement for Gothic architecture.

The place is huge. Okay, stadiums, arenas, and airports are larger, but there's a palpable feeling of weight in the stone that encloses this large volume. And the place is big enough that you could build other buildings inside the main area. In fact, they have. That wall you see at the far end here is a smaller chapel built right under the central tower, with the organ above it. — The place is huge. Okay, stadiums, arenas, and airports are larger, but there’s a palpable feeling of weight in the stone that encloses this large volume. And the place is big enough that you could build other buildings inside the main area. In fact, they have. That wall you see at the far end here is a smaller chapel built right under the central tower, with the organ above it.

Here's a closer view of that wall. Note the statues of the primates of the church, and the gold-chased pipes of the organ above. The central chapel is set up as what seems to be the Archbishop's court. — Here’s a closer view of that wall. Note the statues of the primates of the church, and the gold-chased pipes of the organ above. The central chapel is set up as what seems to be the Archbishop’s court.

Below the foundations of the Minster, they found (surprise, surprise) Roman ruins. Here's a bit of a well in the basement that shows one of the pillars of the Roman fortress that once stood on this spot. And, because it's a hole in the ground, people throw coins in. I guess. — Below the foundations of the Minster, they found (surprise, surprise) Roman ruins. Here’s a bit of a well in the basement that shows one of the pillars of the Roman fortress that once stood on this spot. And, because it’s a hole in the ground, people throw coins in. I guess.

Down in the undercroft, they also have a number of treasures of the cathedral. This is a carved elephant tusk horn that dates from the Saxon period.

The York Gospels, from the 13th century.

Outside the Minster is a statue of Constantine the Great. He was here in 306 when his father, the Emperor Constantius, died, and Constantine, with the support of his army, declared himself Emperor.

After seeing the Minster, I climbed up the stairs at Bootham Bar¹, and decided to walk that section of wall.

The walls are very cool, but very, very narrow. Especially compared to someplace like Londonderry. Built in a different time to defend against different threats.

The Minster dominates the view, when the trees aren't in the way. By civil ordinance, no building can be as tall as two-thirds the height of the Minster. — The Minster dominates the view, when the trees aren’t in the way. By civil ordinance, no building can be as tall as two-thirds the height of the Minster.

I followed the walls around to Monks Bar. The statues at the top of the towers are called the Wild Men of York, and it is said that, if York is in peril, they will come to life and toss their boulders down on attackers.

This gate also holds the Richard III museum, but I didn’t have time to head in there before my tour out to Castle Howard. I’m hoping to get back there today.

Castle Howard is the seat of the Earls of Carlisle, and they’ve lived there for over 300 years. It’s a wonderful example of a stately country home of the aristocracy.

It's also where they filmed both the 80s miniseries of Brideshead Revisted and the 2008 remake. — It’s also where they filmed both the 80s miniseries of Brideshead Revisted and the 2008 remake.

The gardens are both extensive and amazing.

The Atlas Fountain is the main feature of the yard.

Atlas is in the centre, holding the world on his shoulders. Surrounding him are four tritons, spraying him with water. The tritons are about eight feet tall, so Atlas would be 10-11 feet tall if he were standing upright.

This is the Boar Garden. I was hoping for something more exciting based on the name.

This is the Temple of the Four Winds. It's a classical-style folly standing out at one corner of the main grounds. — This is the Temple of the Four Winds. It’s a classical-style folly standing out at one corner of the main grounds.

In the main entry hall. The painting over the fireplace is Vulcan at his forge.

A very nice backgammon table in the Turquoise Parlour. The black draughts are not on the board. I don’t know why not.

These are the stables. Yes, all of the building is the stables. Now, it's been converted into a visitor welcome centre. — These are the stables. Yes, all of the building is the stables. Now, it’s been converted into a visitor welcome centre.

Inside the stable courtyard. There are shops, a cafe, toilets, benches, and an actual butcher's shop. — Inside the stable courtyard. There are shops, a cafe, toilets, benches, and an actual butcher’s shop.

We got back to York around 5:30, and wandered my way down to the King’s Arms², had some dinner³, and caught my Original Ghost Walk at 8:00.

This is an old pub on the river. It floods regularly.

There are four or five ghost walks in York. The one I took was highly recommended on Tripadvisor, and by the folks at my guesthouse. I can see why. Good stories, a lot of ground covered, and the guide was wonderful, keeping conversation going between the stories, so that everyone had a good time the entire tour. Absolutely fantastic.

It was about 10:30 by the time I made it home, and went to bed. I’m still kind of tired today, so I’ve spent the morning in Starbucks sorting my pictures and writing this post.

This afternoon, I’m thinking about going to see Mad Max: Fury Road.

If I can find the theatre again.

In York, they have a saying that I have heard repeatedly from all the guides and several others. “The streets are gates, the gates are bars, and the bars are pubs.” This means that most streets are Somethinggate, like Gillygate or Monksgate, because gate is a corruption of the old Danish word for street. The gates are called bars, from the same root as barbican. And, of course, the drinking places are pubs. [↩]
I was feeling quite smug and self-congratulatory at how easily I was navigating the twisty streets of York. Then I realized that I had passed Betty’s Tea Room three times in the past fifteen minutes. I withdrew the self-congratulations. [↩]
At a restaurant next door – the King’s Arms doesn’t serve food. [↩]

Welcome to Oxford

Left London this morning, taking the train up to Oxford. I’m glad I splurged for the first-class train pass; the seats are very nice, the tables are great, and there are power outlets everywhere. The trip to Oxford is under an hour, but the trip to York will be longer, and then York to Oban, Oban to Edinburgh, and Edinburgh back to London are quite long trips. The extra perks will really tell on those legs.

I got to Oxford around 12:30 PM – everything fell into place on the trip, with me getting to the tube just in time for the train to Paddington, and then got to Paddington just in time for the train to Oxford. That was nice, but it meant that, by the time I walked to the hotel on Broad Street, I was starving, as I hadn’t eaten yet.

After checking in, I unloaded my bags in my room, and went for a wander to find some lunch. Hunger being what it was, I didn’t look too far before stumbling upon a Burger King. Not a traditional English meal, but man, it was just what I needed then.

Then I took a stroll around the shopping district, just looking at stuff. At around 5:00 PM, I went back to my room to rest and read before the Ghost Walk tour. About a half-hour before the tour, I walked across the street to the start point.

This is Broad Street, where I'm staying. You can see the rounded front of the Sheldonian Theatre, and the buildings seem to glow int he setting sun. It's very pretty. — This is Broad Street, where I’m staying. You can see the rounded front of the Sheldonian Theatre, and the buildings seem to glow int he setting sun. It’s very pretty.

Just behind where I'm standing in the previous picture is Trinity College. This is a peak at the grounds through the locked gate. — Just behind where I’m standing in the previous picture is Trinity College. This is a peak at the grounds through the locked gate.

There were only four of us on the Ghost Walk tour¹, which is the minimum number for the walk to run. It started raining part way through², so I didn’t get a lot of pictures.

This is the site where the Oxford Martyrs - Bishops Hugh Latimer and Nicholas Ridley, along with Archbishop of Canterbury, Thomas Cranmer - were burned at the stake. This was at the order of Bloody Mary, Queen after Henry VIII, who went a little nutso about returning England to Catholicism. — This is the site where the Oxford Martyrs – Bishops Hugh Latimer and Nicholas Ridley, along with Archbishop of Canterbury, Thomas Cranmer – were burned at the stake. This was at the order of Bloody Mary, Queen after Henry VIII, who went a little nutso about returning England to Catholicism.

The Bridge of Sighs is much more recent than the surrounding buildings - completed in 1914. It had nothing to do with the Ghost Walk, but it is a cool and recognizable city landmark. — The Bridge of Sighs is much more recent than the surrounding buildings – completed in 1914. It had nothing to do with the Ghost Walk, but it is a cool and recognizable city landmark.

Tom, our guide, was a great storyteller, and told some interesting stories. One that surprised me was the tale of the St. Scholastica Day riots – where the townies and the students went to war against each other, resulting in 30 dead townspeople and 63 dead students.

My favourite story, though, is about Cuthbert Shields. Now, I can find no record of this tale on the Internet, but that’s why I go on these trips, right? To hear the weird history that doesn’t get reported elsewhere.

Anyway, Shields was an historian at Corpus Christi College. He had previously been known as Robert Laing, but changed his name after his behaviour³ landed him in an asylum, and then forced him to spend many years traveling the world. He came back to Oxford around 1888 or so, and stayed there until he died in 1908.

He left behind a strange bequest to the college: a sealed silver box with a ribbon tied around it, and instructions that it not be opened until 50 years after his death. The college honoured his wishes and, in 1958, the librarian, assistant librarian, and warden of the college opened the box.

Inside were scores of Nostradamus-like predictions, carefully arranged and written, chronicling the years since his death.

They were all dead wrong.

The story goes that the Shields’s ghost attended the opening and seemed very disappointed.

Anyway, that’s my first glimpse of Oxford. Another walking tour tomorrow, where I’ll get to see more of the colleges and stuff.

Now, to bed. Good night, all!

Five, counting the guide, Tom. [↩]
Of course. [↩]
Unspecified by Tom, but apparently spelled out in his five-volume autobiography. [↩]

Government, Graves, and Ghost Stories.

The plan this morning was to bus out to a certain car park in the south end of Belfast to take a walk through the woods and fields to the Giant’s Ring. When I woke up, though, I was really feeling yesterday’s walking in my knees and feet. So, I decided instead to spend the morning taking a tour of the Belfast City Hall.

It really is a beautiful building, right in the centre of the city. I've been seeing a lot of it here, because it's a very useful navigation point for anywhere I might want to go. Also, the bus back to the Old Rectory picks up here. — It really is a beautiful building, right in the centre of the city. I’ve been seeing a lot of it here, because it’s a very useful navigation point for anywhere I might want to go. Also, the bus back to the Old Rectory picks up here.

The rather extensive grounds are open to everyone, and are a popular place to have an outdoor lunch. There's even a huge TV screen set up at one location that was showing the news when I saw it. — The rather extensive grounds are open to everyone, and are a popular place to have an outdoor lunch. There’s even a huge TV screen set up at one location that was showing the news when I saw it.

Okay. A lot of the pictures I took in here didn't turn out all that well. But I'm including a few of them that are okay, like this shot of the statue on the first floor, with the mural and the column. — Okay. A lot of the pictures I took in here didn’t turn out all that well. But I’m including a few of them that are okay, like this shot of the statue on the first floor, with the mural and the column.

Incidentally, admission is free to all, and tours run several times a day. The City Hall was financed by Belfast’s two gasworks when it was built, and the plan and understanding – carried through to this day – is that this building belongs to the people of the city, and they share it freely with visitors.

There are a total of five domes on the City Hall: one atop each of the four corner towers, and this central one.

The Council Chamber. There are fifty-one city councillors, and they elect the Lord Mayor of the city from among their number for a one-year term. Lord Mayors may serve multiple terms, but never consecutively.

The Lord Mayor's Chair. Also, the chairs of the Deputy Lord Mayor and the Chief Administrator. — The Lord Mayor’s Chair. Also, the chairs of the Deputy Lord Mayor and the Chief Administrator.

This is the actual table that the Ulster Covenant was signed on. One of the more important pieces of Northern Ireland history.

After touring the City Hall, I walked down to the bus station, and caught the bus to Downpatrick, because there was some stuff there I wanted to see.

This is, as the sign says, the Down County Museum. It used to be a gaol, and Thomas Russell was hanged from these gates after the 1798 rebellion.

The Down County Museum is small, but absolutely wonderful. It has some very nice exhibits. Everything from a beautiful, almost pristine grave cover... — The Down County Museum is small, but absolutely wonderful. It has some very nice exhibits. Everything from a beautiful, almost pristine grave cover…

...to replica cells<sup srcset= — …to replica cells (much more spartan than those at the more modern Crumlin Road Gaol.)…

...to the beautiful (if tiny) Millennium Garden. Really worth the trip, even if it wasn't my main objective. — …to the beautiful (if tiny) Millennium Garden. Really worth the trip, even if it wasn’t my main objective.

Down Cathedral sits on a hill overlooking the entire town. You can see it from pretty much anywhere, but the view of it as you come up the street here is pretty overwhelming.

The inside of the cathedral is lovely - cozier than, say, St. Anne's, and impressive in a completely different way. — The inside of the cathedral is lovely – cozier than, say, St. Anne’s, and impressive in a completely different way.

This is where, as far as history can be sure, the remains of St. Patrick lie, along with the remains of St. Brigid and St. Columba. This is one of the main things I came to Downpatrick to see.

Okay. Saw these statues in the streets in Downpatrick and went to have a look. They are of Lynn Doyle, a Downpatrick writer, and three characters (a dog and two men) from one of his short stories. I got the low-down on him from an elderly nun and three of her friends, and then a little bit more from a clerk in a nearby store where I went to buy something to drink. The Downpatrick folks are all so friendly!

So, I got back on the bus, and made it back into Belfast in time to have dinner and catch the Ghost Walk tour. I don’t have any pictures of that, mainly because it was still daylight, so not very scary, and the visuals weren’t half as interesting as the stories.

The stories were very good, though; we had unmarked graves, live burials, grave robberies, plague, ghostly warnings, and all the rest. It was tremendous fun.

Claire is the same guide I had on the Titanic Walking Tour - she obviously knows her stuff, and is great at presenting the material. I got a picture with her because, after two tours, I figured that made us practically family. Thanks, Claire! — Claire is the same guide I had on the Titanic Walking Tour – she obviously knows her stuff, and is great at presenting the material. I got a picture with her because, after two tours, I figured that made us practically family. Thanks, Claire!

And then I came back to the Old Rectory. I’m going to bed now. Tomorrow, I will see about taking a bus out to Enniskillen, then a taxi to Marble Arch caves.

That’ll be fun.

Much more spartan than those at the more modern Crumlin Road Gaol. [↩]